The ham, the mushrooms and a secret from the Sierra de Aracena

Iberico ham and the green soul of Andalusia

Charming villages, a mild climate until November and the history of one of Spain's most important products ensure unique moments in the Sierra de Aracena .

Humid Atlantic winds shape the landscape of holm oaks, cork oaks, olive groves, and chestnut trees. The region is one of the wettest in Spain—lush green year-round. This pastoral landscape provides ideal conditions for one of the world's most famous animals: the Iberian pig .

The Christian kings of Castile once brought domestic pigs and chestnuts to the region west of the Sierra Morena. The animals quickly realized that acorns were more tasty than chestnuts—and thus, over the centuries, the typical Iberian pig was developed.

The dark, agile animal with its pointed snout and black hooves is now a delicacy. Breeders vary in taste—and price—depending on the breed: a leg can cost up to 700 euros.

Ham village Aroche

The small, picturesque village of Aroche is a perfect starting point for immersing yourself in the history of Iberico ham. Its roots date back to Roman times. Around 3,000 people live here among white houses, cobbled streets, and small bars.

What immediately catches your eye: the shops are packed with spicy-smelling hams.

In Isabel's shop, the ham expert passionately explains the various slicing techniques: "A whole ham like this, weighing eight kilograms, costs 150 euros," she says, as she presents a dark-grained leg in the ham slicer. Artfully sliced, it costs another 50 euros—including a small sample.

Master of ham cutting

Antonio González Cárdeno from Cumbres Mayores (Huelva) is considered a master of his craft. In 2025, he won the Asociación Nacional de Cortadores de Jamón (ANCJ) competition. At the "Campeonato de España de Cortadores de Jamón" (Spanish Jamón Ham Competition), he impressed the judges with his precision and style. For the Spanish, this award is the highest praise in the world of Iberico ham.

Running, eating, chilling

Thirty-one villages in the Sierra breed Iberico pigs. Each animal travels up to 40 kilometers daily. Only if its diet consists entirely of acorns can it bear the title "Iberico."

The animals live on pastures for up to 18 months – stress-free and without factory farming. After that, the complex production of Jabugo ham begins: Each ham is salted by hand and air-dried for up to three years.

The special microclimate, with plenty of rain and wind, ensures the distinctive flavor. A master ham maker decides when the doors to the halls are opened or closed – depending on the humidity and temperature.

"Ham is part of our lives and our culture. It's our DNA," says ham cutter Miguel Prieto during a tasting. Ham has been produced in Jabugo for over 600 years. Ninety percent stays in the country, and only ten percent is exported.

"There can be up to six different flavors in one ham," explains Prieto. Cutting is a ritual: from tying the apron to the perfect slice—almost like an opera.

"A well-cut slice should stick to the plate. Then you place it on your tongue for three seconds – and think about the landscape."

Records and rosaries in Aroche

Aroche surprises with another special feature: the world's only museum of rosaries , housed in the 17th-century La Cilla de los Jerónimo monastery.

The church choir director and organist Paulino Dias Alcaide collected over 3,000 rosaries from all over the world – enough for an entry in the Guinness Book of Records .

On display are rosaries belonging to John Paul II, Richard Nixon, Grace Kelly—and even one belonging to former German Chancellor Helmut Schmidt . The rosary of the staunch Protestant hangs here alongside those of Empress Fabiola and the Cuban singer Antonio Machín.

Mushrooms, forests and a “mushroom pope”

The journey continues through the province of Huelva , just 50 kilometers from the Portuguese border. Under a blue sky, the shady forests of the Sierra stretch out, where mushrooms take center stage in autumn.

Environmental scientist Daniel Calleja from Babel Nature leads visitors through Balmoral Park – a two-hour hike full of discovery.

"Trees and fungi communicate with each other," he explains. "If one tree is ill, the fungus passes it on to the next."

Porcini mushrooms, parasol mushrooms, and russulas are among the highlights of his tour. "Tonight we're having prawns and rice with it," he says with a smile.

Sierra de Aracena gourmet region

The region's menus include dishes with eggs, mushrooms, wild asparagus, and Jabugo ham—often combined with seafood.

A final culinary highlight awaits visitors in Jabugo , the birthplace of Iberian ham. This is where the authority responsible for the Protected Designation of Origin (DOP) is located.

Jabugo de Iberico is not just a product – it is a way of life and the pride of the Sierra de Aracena.

Travel tips & addresses

Arrival

Flights with Iberia from various German cities via Madrid to Seville: iberia.com

Hotels

Hotel Casa Palacio Conde del Álamo , Paseo de la Iglesia, 21240 Aroche – Huelva hotelcondedelalamo.com Charming hotel in the center of Aroche. Renovated rooms in a historic building. Breakfast includes toasted white bread, olive oil, and tomato sauce. Double rooms from €95.

Finca Valbono, Ctra. Carboneras KM 1, 21200 Aracena (Huelva), Email: reservas@fincavalbono.com. Traditional accommodation with a main house or bungalows. Typical Spanish breakfast. Double rooms from €92.

Restaurants

Restaurante Miguel Tenorio Almendro, 21350 Almonaster la Real, Huelv, turismoalmonasterlareal.com/restaurantes/meson-miguel-tenorio/ Authentic Andalusian cuisine with a terrace under orange trees. A stroll through Almonaster la Real is well worth it.

Restaurante Montecruz restaurantemontecruz.com 21200 Aracena, Huelva

Restaurant at the Hotel Convento Aracena hotelconventoaracena.es/es Aracena

Restaurante Juan Hormigo JabugoTelephone: +34 959 60 36 84